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21 januari 2006
Detroit's Eastern Market, Heidelberg Project, Beyond

YPSIDIXIT and a companion spent the loveliest of days exploring Detroit's Eastern Market, two antiques shops nearby, the market environs, and Belle Isle. It was a day full of wonder, amazing sights, and quietude in the steamy, tropical, elegant Belle Isle Botanical Gardens.
(many pictures inside; please allow a moment to load).

Y. and friend took the Old Chicago Road into Detroit, as neither of us are overly fond of highways. Michigan Ave. near Detroit offered many examples of one of Y.'s favorite art forms, which is signs hand-painted on the sides of businesses. Y. loves these rough-hewn murals and regards them as a particularly charming Detroit art genre (Ypsi has a handful).
Y. pored over Mr. Plant's extensive and varied plant-table, selecting three li'l plants to grace my kitchen window: an aloe, a stubby pink guy, and a marble with spikes, all as succulent as the day would turn out to be.

The market boasted fruit and vegetables of all kinds, plus cider, popcorn, pigs' heads, a truck full of live, bored sheep, and...bunnies!

To her momentary dismay, Ypsidixit was informed, near a crate of beets, that the American Dream has been cancelled.

Y. and friend left the market building and headed for an antique shop just southeast of the market.

Here, Y. and friend were mesmerized by a blender. Not just any blender. A built-like-a-tank, 20-pound early-60s Osterizer "Galaxie 10," complete with little atomic-swirly icon signifying the advanced science behind this sublime chrome-y creation. Y.'s friend chivalrously granted buying rights to Y. Earlier they'd seen a lovely lurid tapestry version of the Last Supper, and Y. had said that her similarly atheist friend's "birthday was coming!" Y.'s friend mumbled, "Yeah...and I'd like the Galaxie 10." A few bats of Y.'s eyelashes, or, more likely, her friend's generosity, solved the question of ownership of this jewel.

Thus far, Y. had scored the gleaming Galaxie 10, and, from a little Mediterranean food shop, a mouth-watering tower o' Moroccan sardines (blue boxes), anchovies (red tin), stuffed grape leaves (round can), and a tempting tin of "Flokos" (black and white tin). I have no idea what Flokos is, but it has a picture of a fish on it, which was good enough for Y. Oh, and two boxes of yummy falafel mix. And two little candies which we ate on the drive home.

Y. and friend visited a real old-timey general store, in business since 1877. This store was full of everything from cheap, well-made baskets to an international selection of gourmet food treats. Y. bought anchovy paste and violet gum, and her friend, who is also laudably part Dutch, bought Droste pastilles and (as did Y.) hopjes (Dutch coffee candies).

At another nearby antique shop just next to the pizza place, Y.'s friend became mesmerized by an 1870s sewing machine. It turned out the vendor who'd dropped it off proved elusive, so we didn't get a price on this item...but it was a lovely machine.

On to the Heidelberg Project. Much diminished from its glory days, this arresting art project still offered plenty of weird tableaux to enchant us. We wandered all over the site, and noted the rather high number of cars that slowly drove through, obviously taking it in as we were. It was a popular spot.

We met and cosseted two kitties here, both of whom were very affectionate. Y. and friend surveyed a rank of decorated vaccuum cleaners next to what appeared to be Tyree's home and office.

After soaking in the H. project, Y. and friend headed to nearby Belle Isle. The sun was low and sparkling on the water, with the RenCen to the west. Lovely view over the steel-grey, icy river. Y. and friend examined the giant, elegant marble fountain.

After sadly surveying the "AQUARIUM CLOSED" sign on the exquisite 1904 aquarium, we crept into the nearby Victorian-era hothouse of the Botanical Gardens. Here we were dazzled by enormous palm trees, dainty fragrant orchids, the cactus room, and the secluded fern room (where a sign helpfully advertised, "FERNS"), where we rested for a moment on a bench.
Y. surveyed the lush plants just outside the quiet fern room while slouching tiredly and happily against her stalwart companion. It was a day of lush warmth, wonders, sun-sparkly water, and, hidden away and under wraps, the most verdant growth and richness in the coldest of seasons.
Posted by ypsidixit at 21 januari 2006 20:20
Comments
One highlight on the clear-skied orangey-pink sunset drive home was spotting a restaurant's tropical-island-handpainted illuminated sign. Amid the palm trees and shimmering blue water was the legend "Low Tide Seafood Restaurant."
Despite the allure of this restaurant's name, we reluctantly skipped it.
Posted by: Laura at 21 januari 2006 21:43
If you like this kind of thing, Preservation Wayne runs many very interesting tours of downtown Detroit and other Detroit neighborhoods. Despite the city's rather gruesome reputation, it has many hidden jewels (as you have discovered) which are disappearing at an alarming rate due to neglect, vandalism, or the city's inexplicable deterimination to bulldoze its past and replace it with tacky, soulless boxes. Fortunately, there are groups like Preservation Wayne, as well as determined individuals, working hard to preserve that which is worth saving in Detroit.
Posted by: tom at 23 januari 2006 11:25
I do love that sort of things, and tours of such sites would be very fun; thank you for hte info, Tom!
Tom: did you hear about the Motown building slated for destruction--this week?
There was an NPR story on it. The building is still full of stuff. There were 2 urban explorers in the building whom the reporter interviewed. The reporter lifted a tape from the site--and played it--for the first time in 30 years. It was fairly amazing.
Posted by: Laura at 23 januari 2006 11:28
I knew about the Motown building, as it was documented in a couple of blogs I follow, detroitblog, and detroitFunk.
Both of these guys have a lot of 'tude, and their blogs are really good.
Posted by: tom at 23 januari 2006 11:42
Whoa. The Motown Building is half gone as of Saturday! Man alive.
dETROITfUNK says: (don't miss the ton of great pictures on his or her blog)
"The main building in the Motown complex, the Donovan Building, slowly being eaten away. D-Day has come, and its time for another record breaking (and law breaking) tear down. No demolition signs, no contiguous fencing, no air quality devices - I did see the water hose on one time when they were using the wrecking ball. These guys just dont give a damn, this shit's coming down."
Posted by: Laura at 23 januari 2006 11:46
Motown Building interior photos--really cool ones!--are right here, on detroitblog. I also just love the photo on the front page of the blog--whew, gorgeous night shot.
Posted by: Laura at 23 januari 2006 11:50
Reminds me of the British writer Geoff Dyer (author of "Paris, Trance"). He has a great article in one of his newer travel books on the old Detroit train station. The book is called something like "Yoga For People Who Can't Be Bothered To Do It".
Posted by: daniel at 23 januari 2006 11:59
I'm not sure who detroitfunk or detroitblog are, but detroitfunk (definitely a guy) seems to be a professional photog who regularly posts many really great photos.
detroitblog is more of a snarky essayist, but also posts good pictures and writes interesting stuff.
Posted by: tom at 23 januari 2006 12:01
"sheep, and...bunnies!"
I finally stopped in at the new Asian grocery store on Washtenaw (across from Huckleberry's pary store) and was surprised to see tanks of live turtles and frogs. Mmm mmm, good!
Posted by: Ivan at 23 januari 2006 21:07
Ivan: Interesting! I have yet to pop in there. Sounds like it's worth a trip. I have tried frog, once, and thought it unspectacular...and so little meat. But to each their own.
Posted by: Laura at 24 januari 2006 09:13